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29 October 2021

Rolex and the Prisoner of War Watches

The history of Rolex is full of fascinating stories, including marketing stunts, technical innovation, famous owners, and dramatic adventures. One of the most remarkable is little mentioned and poorly researched, but is an example of Rolex’s amazing foresight and business acumen. Rolex sold watches directly to Allied Officers in German Prisoner of War camps and stated that payment need not be made until “the end of the war”.

The Rolex Ref. 3525 Oyster Chronograph bough by Corporal Clive Nutting while a Prisoner of War in Stalag Luft IIIThe Rolex Ref. 3525 Oyster Chronograph bough by Corporal Clive Nutting while a Prisoner of War in Stalag Luft III

The Rolex Ref. 3525 Oyster Chronograph bough by Corporal Clive Nutting while a Prisoner of War in Stalag Luft III

Rolex and Allied Prisoners of War

Rolex was remarkable in World War Two for two main reasons; they did not sell watches to the armed forces directly, and they chose a side to be on. While many Swiss watch companies sold watches to the armed forces on both sides to issue to servicemen, Rolex did not, with the notable exception of supplying movements to Panerai in Italy for the Navy Diving Squadron. Rolex began the war continuing to sell watches around the world from Neutral Switzerland. In 1942 exports from landlocked Switzerland became much more difficult, and Rolex turned to an enormous “captive market” sitting on their doorstep in Germany: Allied Forces’ prisoners of war.

While Rolex never had to pick a side, it is notable that they clearly advertised to Allied PoWs in camp newspapers. In their advertising in the US, particularly later in the war, the copy used signified hope for an Allied victory. This one in particular is interesting:

A Rolex Christmas ad from 1944A Rolex Christmas ad from 1944

A Rolex Christmas ad from 1944

Rolex and The Great Escape

The most famous Prisoner of War story of World War II is that of “The Great Escape”, an escape attempt made by 76 men from camp Stalag Luft III in 1944. While the film of the same name dramatizes the story, the remarkable tale is best explored here. The watch above belonged to an English Corporal, Clive Nutting, who did not make the escape attempt, but like 600 other men in the camp, was involved in the preparations. Using his skills as a cobbler, or shoemaker, he provided civilian style boots and shoes for those expected to escape.

It is remarkable that the Germans allowed these watch deliveries, despite taking all other watches from servicemen when they were captured. Many of these watches proved invaluable over time for escape planning. Who knows if this example was used to help plan The Great Escape?

Clive Nutting's Prisoner of War Rolex. Pic Credit: AntiquorumClive Nutting's Prisoner of War Rolex. Pic Credit: Antiquorum

Clive Nutting’s Prisoner of War Rolex. Pic Credit: Antiquorum

He received his watch in August 1943, and his family kept all the correspondence from Hans Wilsdorf, which was very similar to that pictured below. Note the amazing phrase “You must not even think of settlement during the war.”  

Letter from Rolex to two Prisoners of War in a German Camp: "You must not even think of Settlement during the war"Letter from Rolex to two Prisoners of War in a German Camp: "You must not even think of Settlement during the war"

Letter from Rolex to two Prisoners of War in a German Camp: “You must not even think of Settlement during the war”

The Rolex Monoblocco Chronograph Reference 3525

This incredible watch is unusual for a Rolex. It is a Chronograph, or stop watch, and was a premium complication sold at the time, much more expensive than their core range. It is called a “Monoblocco” due to what is known as a Monoblock case. This is a case made so that the bezel, or dial surround is made integrated into the case body. This style of case design is usually only reserved for the toughest styles of watch, so we can clearly see its appeal to someone in the middle of a Prisoner of War camp! The black dial and luminous hands were also very common at the time as black dials do not reflect light. Many watches today share this essential feature often found on military issued or military style watches.

Military issued watches remain a fascinating area for collectors to explore. While many of them share similar styling, few of them share as dramatic provenance, or history, as those issued to Prisoners of War. So far, it appears four have come up for auction in the last 20 years, and all have proven newsworthy, more can be found at the bottom of this article on the Nutting watch for those interested.

The CEO of the Watch Collectors' Club own WWII issued Watch, part of the so-called "Dirty Dozen". Manufactured by Jaeger LeCoultreThe CEO of the Watch Collectors' Club own WWII issued Watch, part of the so-called "Dirty Dozen". Manufactured by Jaeger LeCoultre

The CEO of the Watch Collectors’ Club own WWII issued Watch, part of the so-called “Dirty Dozen”. Manufactured by Jaeger LeCoultre

Modern Military-Inspored Pilot's Watch, the Hamilton Khaki Air Race ChronographModern Military-Inspored Pilot's Watch, the Hamilton Khaki Air Race Chronograph

Modern Military-Inspored Pilot’s Watch, the Hamilton Khaki Air Race Chronograph

Conclusion

We at The Watch Collectors’ Club collect all different kinds of watch, and are also story collectors. Tales such as this one highlight a century of fun stories connecting watches to their owners, and it’s fascinating hearing about them many decades later is. What stories are being made with today’s watches? What is the best story connected to a watch you own? We exist to help our members share their stories about their watches, and we are always interested in hearing yours. Check out our Events page to find out where you can come and share stories with us.

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Last night, we held a showcase event exploring the wide variety of watches from the largest watch groups in the world. We’ve written short introductions to LVMHSeikoCitizenRichemont and Swatch where you can find out more about the brands within these groups. 

Hamish, our CEO, shared his Jaeger LeCoultre Reverso. Jaeger LeCoultre was purchased by the Swiss giant Richemont in 2000. JLC make a huge range of high-end automatic watches, but their most famous watch is the Reverso, named for the fact that the case can be reversed to protect the glass. The Reverso was the world’s first sports watch, designed in 1931 to be worn whilst playing polo. The story of how this watch was designed is fascinating. You can read about it here. The Reverso was Hamish’s “grail watch” for many years, and he particularly likes the Art Deco dial of this model from 1946. 

Jaeger LeCoultre ReversoJaeger LeCoultre Reverso

Jaeger LeCoultre Reverso

The case being reversedThe case being reversed

The case being reversed

Stuart ‘T-S’ showed his most recent purchase, a Casio G-Shock GW-M5610 -1ER. Stuart was inspired to buy this G-Shock after a trial event The Watch Collectors Club ran over the summer, which had explored how to start a watch collection. This model reminds Stuart of the first watch he owned as a child; however, he now has a greater appreciation of the watch’s technology. Some of the features include: solar power, radio-updated world-timer, an overnight power-saving feature, and an LCD display that will outlive any owner. Like most watch collectors, Stuart is worried about damaging his watches, so was attracted to the robust-ness of the G-Shock range. The picture below shows him wearing it whilst sanding and fitting new garage doors. 

Stuart's G-Shock in actionStuart's G-Shock in action

Stuart’s G-Shock in action

Ed, the co-founder of the club, shared someone else’s watch with the group: an IWC Portofino. The watch belongs to his partner’s father and is often borrowed on visits to Cornwall. Like JLC, IWC is one of the high-end brands owned by the Richemont group. Ed’s favourite features of the watch are the rose gold case, and the contrast between the indices, which are both lines and roman numerals, and the grey face. The watch looks larger than it is, because of an optical illusion caused by the slim bezel. 

IWC PortofinoIWC Portofino

IWC Portofino

Like Hamish, Ed is a big fan of Jaeger LeCoultre watches. He also talked about his perpetual Calendar from the brand.  This watch dates from the early 1990’s, and was bought at auction. Perpetual calendars are very complicated watches. They denote the day of the week, the date of the month, the month, the moonphase, and the year. What is particularly special about perpetual calendars is that the automatically adjust to the 29th of February on each leap year. Ed loves the variety of subdials on the watch, the blue and gold moonphase, and the cream enamelled dial. The watch is very fragile, so he only wears it on special occasions. 

Ed's JLC Perpetual CalendarEd's JLC Perpetual Calendar

Ed’s JLC Perpetual Calendar

It has a beautiful moon phase It has a beautiful moon phase

It has a beautiful moon phase

The second watch Hamish explained was another Jaeger LeCoultre, a WWW Dirty Dozen. The Dirty Dozen watches are famous military watches coveted by collectors all over the world. The British army commissioned 12 watch manufacturers to follow a design brief for a simple, reliable military watch in 1944, all called WWW or Wrist Watch Waterproof. The watches had to have a brass case painted silver, black dial, luminescent indices and hands, and a screw-down case. The 12 different watches were almost identical, and were delivered in April 1945, shortly before the end of the second world war. Most of the watches were sold after the war in Army surplus auctions, and it is rare to find one in original condition, such as this one. You can read more about the fascinating story of the Dirty Dozen here. 

Hamish's JLC WWW Dirty DozenHamish's JLC WWW Dirty Dozen

Hamish’s JLC WWW Dirty Dozen

The screw-down case has WWW marked on itThe screw-down case has WWW marked on it

The screw-down case has WWW marked on it

Stuart ‘K’ showcased his Omega Seamaster Aqua-Terra. Omega is owned by the Swatch Group. Stuart has been collecting watches for a long-time and has an extensive collection; however, he thinks he wears this watch more than any other. The Aqua-Terra is a less-well known model in the Seamaster range. This model is the smallest automatic watch in the range, at 36mm, and is a rare “B Series” model. The “B Series” was created to fix problems with the reliability of the movement in the “A Series”. It was produced for a very short period of time, and there are now very few “B Series” left in original condition. Whenever a “B Series” Aqua-Terra goes to Omega for a service, they replace the movement with a more modern version. Stuart thinks these watches are excellent value for the money, not least because they are easier to find than their competition from Rolex. 

An Aqua-Terra similar to Stuart'sAn Aqua-Terra similar to Stuart's

An Aqua-Terra similar to Stuart’s

The event concluded with a discussion of two Cartier watches that we at The Watch Collectors Club are really interested in: the new Tank Must with Blue Face, and the Tank Basculante. Both utilise the famous Cartier Tank design in different ways. The Tank Must is a very simple watch with a striking blue face, designed to attract younger customers to the brand. The Basculante is Cartier’s answer to the JLC Reverso; the case allows you to rotate the face to protect it from damage. It is also Hamish’s latest grail watch. 

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