Swiss Made is one of the world’s most famous trademarks. It is a national Rule of Origin, set up to demonstrate to buyers not only that the item in question was made in Switzerland, but also that the item is made to a certain standard. This label is written into Swiss law and if any product uses the label without following the rules it is judged to be counterfeit and may be seized by customs or the producer sued in their home country.

In the world of watches, Swiss Made is usually but not always put on the dial of any watch that wants to use the term in marketing. Watch companies do not have to pay a fee for this so long as they follow the rules.

A modern Rolex Daytona with the words Swiss Made at the bottom of the Dial.What are the rules for a Swiss Made watch?

1. The movement, or mechanism, that powers the watch must be Swiss, which means that at least 50% of the movement components must be made in Switzerland, it was assembled in Switzerland and it was tested by the manufacturer in Switzerland.

2. The movement must be placed in the case and tested in Switzerland.

3. 60% of all of the production costs must be generated in Switzerland.

If a watch meets these criteria then the maker can choose to use the terms Swiss Made in marketing and on the dial.

Which watches are Swiss Made today?

Many watch companies are proud to boast the term Swiss made on the dial, but many other companies make all their watches in Switzerland and qualify to use it but choose not to. They do this for a few reasons; to allow themselves more flexibility in how they make the watch, for design reasons not to have the words on the dial, or because they follow a higher standard of certification such as Chronometer testing all of their watches, and advertise that instead.

What about watches made in Switzerland that don’t use the label?

It is perfectly possible for a fully Swiss Made watch to choose not to use the label and instead the company will market their products as being Made in Switzerland. This will still have to conform to international Rules of Origin as it is not permitted for someone to make a watch elsewhere and say it is Made in Switzerland. Many of the highest craft watches would never use the Swiss Made term on the dial, yet their watches will have a much higher percentage of components made in Switzerland than those who do use it, as all of their components are handmade. Watches from the High Horology brands of Kari Voutilainen and Greubel Forsey fit this description for example.

This watch from Kari Voutilainen says Hand Made instead of Swiss Made on the DialWhat about brands from other countries that still say Swiss Made?

A Watch Brand can start up in a country outside of Switzerland and design watches that are fully manufactured in Switzerland and boast the Swiss Made label. This is because the brand wants to give their customers the reassurance of the Swiss Made brand despite not being based in Switzerland. The fact that this happens still today shows the power of the Swiss Watch Industry’s reputation.

Are all Swiss Made watches better than watches made elsewhere?

It is not the case that Swiss Made means a watch is better than a watch made elsewhere. What makes for a good watch is related to good design, a proper manufacturing and testing process, and a high level of quality of materials chosen. These things can be done well or badly anywhere, including in Switzerland. Just because a watch is German Made,  Japanese Made, or from somewhere else does not mean it is inferior to something Swiss Made.

When the Swatch Group decided to make the Swatch watch in the early 1980s, it was Swiss Made so that the world would gain confidence in affordable quartz watches coming from Switzerland. Until that point, Japanese manufacturers were dominating the market. This showed that Swiss Made quartz was reliable.

Conclusion

Swiss Made is a powerful term and consumers who see it will know a watch has been mostly made, and certainly assembled and tested in a country with a great reputation for watchmaking. The rules are clear and help maintain the industry in Switzerland. It’s always fun and interesting for watch buyers to ask where a brand manufactures, assembles and tests its watches, and the Swiss Made label helps simplify the answer for many famous brands.